New owner

[johnnie]

Welke Tomos model heb je? Tomos Flexer 25
Wat is het bouwjaar? 2007
Sinds wanneer speelt dit probleem? NA
Wat is het probleem? To slow?
Onlangs nog iets verandert aan je Tomos? No stock.

Welke Tomos model heb je? Tomos Flexer 25
Wat is het bouwjaar? 2007
Sinds wanneer speelt dit probleem? NA
Wat is het probleem? To slow?
Onlangs nog iets verandert aan je Tomos? No stock.

Hi all.
f
I just purcased a 2007/2008 make Tomos Flexer 25 km/h.
It's yellow and in a very good condition.
The seller claims almost brand new, about 200km (max) total distance.

My questions are:
It reaches about 27km/h, then it seem to want to go faster but stalls/halts?
That is not an issue, but 35 would have been nice
It is really sad that Tomos is not so known where I live, Sweden. Well it is know but not that common, mostly older people know about them.
So, I am trying to run Google Translate on dutch, which gets... complicated

Anyway. Do you have any thoughts on my ride?
It has the S-curve exhaust, A5(A35?) cylinder. Dellorto SHA149P.
I would like to get a speedometer mine is the Basic model without, but they seem expensive?


Greetings from Sweden!
BR
Johnnie

[shadowranger]

Welcome. Your issue with the engine trying to go faster /slower/faster is because it reaches it's max RPM while the ignition is set to the latest BDP. As we call it here "Overtoeren". This is because the law demands it to ensure you can't drive faster when you're driving a 25km/h moped. The piston is travelling through BDP at the same time as the spark jumps. To improve this we set our ignitions to spark earlier as it's used on 45 km/h versions.

To get this fixed you can try (only on models without pick-up next to the flywheel) to rotate the ignition clockwise to the upper mark to set your ignition to the 45 km/h setting. This wil not speed your Flexer to 45 km/h, but will improve ignition and combustion of the fuel. To go faster you can change the after chainwheel to a smaller amount of teeth (eg. 33 to 28) but this will decrease traction. How much depends on how much smaller the chainwheel.

Some pull out limiters, which are located in the intake manifold and aitfilter box (like a flippo with a u-shape tube). You have a 14/9 carburettor, so I don't recommend to pull out the airfilter box limiter. And for the exhaust, if it is the small S-bend verion you better exchange it with a proper 45 km/h version or imitation without that s-bent.

About the speedometer, you can get a simpel version like it's mounted on the models, driven by cable. You need also a part on you front wheel to drive the cable. Or you can use any bike computer (be carefull for interference because of the ignition). There is some info in our wiki section. See under D of Digital speedometer. It's in Dutch, but with pictures so you get an idea of how to mount such a speedometer.

[johnnie]

Thank you very much for the reply.
Are there good/bad non S-curve exhaust? I tried to translate the big "exhaust test" from dutch, but it went bananas and was almost not understandable. I want to have the looks of original 45km/h exhaust. Can you help me? I have seen that some NL stores offers different kind of exhausts with original looks. Please PM me with concrete examples from stores that sends stuff to Sweden.
The plug, is that located in the pipe between the carb and cylinder? On the cylinder side or carb side?
That pipe is sealed, so if I brake it I need to use new screws.

Yes, I have the SHA 14/9 P carb. No mix screw, just idle.

I want to make small adjustments to get the engine going more appropriate and running well. Now it seem to stall/not have sufficient air/gas/whatever. Also, changing chainwheel. What might be correct if I want to go like 40-42km/h?

To reach 40-42km/h with new exhaust, new chainwheel and changed ignition. Please tell me what parts to use.
Iginition needs to be tuned I guess. What do I need to remove to reach it?

Thank you!

Edit: Oh, My air intake has the U shape pipe/tube, about 10mm inner diameter, 15cm long. What should I do with that?

[shadowranger]

You need an exhaust like this. This one imitates the original looks, but has no s-bend or small front pipe like yours. Only thing you must keep in mind is if you have a euro-1 or euro-2 mounting to the frame (1 bolt or 2 bolt fastening). In the last case, if it's not yet there, you need an extra part to transform from euro-1 to euro-2 like this:



There are some on-line shops which will send to Sweden, like q-parts. Of course there might be cheaper ones, but this is one I found quickly and has possibility to send to Sweden @ 15 euro.

About the best setup, that depends on how your engine is working and reacts to changes you make to the carburettor, exhaust, etc. Normally only a exhaust change will not need to change the jet. You need to check the colour of your sparkplug electrodes after a while if it's still coff-and-cream-brown tanned. This is when the mixture and ignition for engine is set well. White/ grey is too lean and needs a bigger jet, black/ oily is too big jet.

Mainly the most of the users here have a chainwheel setup of 26 teeth (both sides) and the ignition set to 45km/h, cilinderhead exchanged for a 45km/h one or Hihg pressure head and the limiters removed. Not all is needed to reach you desired speed. E.g. Mine has the Original 31 teeth blade and all I did was removal of the plug, exhaust and ignition timing. The plug is btw on the carb side. You can remove this very easely.

To reach the ignition, you have to remove kickstart pedal, lid and flywheel. Also you need a plug (piston stopper) in your cilinder to block the crankshaft in order to loosen the nut which will hold the flywheel in place. And of course a flywheel puller. Inside you can use normal tools like screwdriver or Allen key. Attention for the small wedge, that this will be fitted inside the slot of the flywheel, otherwise your flywheel will be off time.

The u-shaped tube in your airfilter can be removed, but when you don't change carb I don't think you have benefits from it.

[johnnie]

My setup is now after small mods: non plugged 14/9 carb, ignition set to 45km/h, no u-shape hose in the airbox.
Now I want a new exhaust and maybe change rear chainwheel too. About rear chainwheel? Current is 37T? will 26T or 28T be good or will it be very slow? I see that most people have 26T in front and back, but mine has 27T front, right? Will a rear 26T make it deadly slow?

If I should upgrade the exhaust, and don't want to increase the noise, or at least not by much. As silent as possible.
Which one of these should I go for? My moped is yellow with black parts, no chrome. Will chrome exhaust look odd?
cityparts.nl seem to have double bolt fastening, looking more stock than using the small metal conversion part and one bolt.

This is looks like my stock exhaust, two bolts and black color. Will it limit my top speed compared to the others below?
Tecno - uitlaat origineel-model tomos A3/ A35 45km uitvoering
http://www.cityparts.nl/tecno-uitlaat-o ... -2930.html

Tecno - uitlaat tecno tomos a35 na 2007 45km Ø22mm bocht
http://www.cityparts.nl/tecno-uitlaat-t ... 25881.html

Tecno - uitlaat tecno tomos a35 na 2007 45km Ø26mm bocht
http://www.cityparts.nl/tecno-uitlaat-t ... 25982.html

Tecno - uitlaat origineel-model tomos A3/A35 45km uitvoering
http://www.cityparts.nl/tecno-uitlaat-o ... -2647.html

Regarding speedometer. I can see that there are different versions. Two and one bolt mounts etc.
What is most "stock"? cityparts seem to have a couple of different models. Meter, wire and wheel-thing, right?

[shadowranger]

Your Flexer has indeed a 27 teeth chainwheel at the front, even bowlshaped afaik. The rear chainwheel you can choose for yourself, 28 is maybe good for the speed you want to reach without losing too much tork. With the exhaust like in your links your speed may even increase too because the frontpipe is bigger than your Original one. About the noise, the stock ones or imitation look-a-likes are equal. When you take a Bullet or Bi-Turbo etc. those exhaust produce more noise.